🚆 A Day Trip to Mostar

Mish
3 days ago
4 min read

Updated: 5 hours ago

The world famous train trip we took on a whim

If there’s one thing I’ll always remember about Bosnia, it’s how the journey itself is often just as beautiful as the destination.

Our day trip to Mostar started early, coffee in hand and excitement buzzing despite the lack of sleep. We’d heard the train ride from Sarajevo to Mostar described as one of Europe’s most scenic journeys, even featured on Michael Portillo’s Great Continental Railway Journeys. And honestly, he was right (of course!).

As the train pulled out of the city and began weaving through mountain passes, tunnels, and river valleys, I pressed my forehead to the glass like a kid. Every turn revealed another postcard view; craggy cliffs, emerald rivers, tiny red-roofed villages. For a few hours, the world slowed down to the rhythmic click of train tracks and the gentle hum of adventure.

Arriving in Mostar: First Impressions & Bosnian Coffee

When we stepped off the train, the sun hit like a spotlight. Mostar was hot. Even hotter than Sarajevo, but alive with energy. We grabbed a quick Bosnian coffee to wake up properly (and probably sweat even more), before setting out to explore.

Mostar is one of those cities that instantly draws you in. Narrow cobbled lanes, bright market stalls, and the famous 'Stari Most' (Old Bridge) arching gracefully over the Neretva River. It’s beautiful, chaotic, and impossibly photogenic.

As luck would have it, our visit on 27 July 2025 coincided with the annual bridge-jumping competition sponsored by RedBull, where brave locals hurl themselves off the 24-metre-high bridge into the icy river below. The jumps weren’t starting until the afternoon, so we had time to explore first.

A Walking Tour to Remember (and Recommend!)

We joined a free walking tour with Sheva from GuruWalk, and it turned out to be one of our favourite tours of the entire trip. Sheva, a born-and-bred Mostarian, was equal parts passionate historian and stand-up comedian.

He guided us through the Old Town, past mosques, old Ottoman houses, and bullet-pocked walls, telling stories that balanced humour with history. We learned about the city’s complex past, its post-war recovery, and its proud cultural mix. Sheva also gave us the inside scoop on where to find the best ice cream (essential in that heat) and a few secret viewpoints of the bridge away from the crowds.

Lunch, Shopping & Brandy

After the tour, we wandered through the bazaar, ducking into little shops to admire embroidered tablecloths, jewellery, and copper souvenirs. We don’t buy much when we travel mainly because of weight limits, but we do love to look.

We found a shady restaurant overlooking the river and tucked into a leisurely lunch: more ćevapi (Ash’s addiction continued), while I tried a light salad and a cold beer. There’s something about sitting by the water, watching the world go by, that just feels like travel at its best.

Before leaving, we couldn’t resist grabbing a few mini bottles of flavoured rakija (local brandy), mine pomegranate, Ash’s cherry. Sweet, potent, and absolutely perfect souvenirs.

Bridge Jumpers, Crowds & Cold Drinks

By mid-afternoon, the bridge was packed with locals and tourists jostling for the best vantage point. The bridge jumpers climbed the slippery stone arch, waved to the cheering crowd, and then plunged into the bright turquoise water below.

It was one of those travel moments that felt spontaneous and special, even though it happens every year. We stayed for a while, moving between bars along the river, soaking it all in with an ice-cold drink in hand.

The Long Journey Home (and a Lesson in Patience)

Our return train was meant to leave around 5:30 p.m. We arrived early, smugly thinking we’d nailed our timing. Famous last words.

The train was three hours late.

At first, there were no announcements, no updates just a growing crowd of travellers sprawled across the platform, fanning themselves and swapping stories. We were tired, sweaty, and a bit delirious, but there was also this unspoken sense of camaraderie. Nobody complained. Everyone just… waited.

So, we did too.

We sat on the bare concrete, people-watched, shared snacks, and decided to lean into the madness. That’s the thing about travel sometimes you just have to go with the flow. When you let go of control, it becomes part of the story.

Eventually, the train appeared out of the darkness, greeted with laughter and applause. We climbed aboard, found our seats, and promptly fell asleep, rocked gently back to Sarajevo. By the time we crawled into bed after midnight, we were exhausted but buzzing.

Final Thoughts: Worth Every Minute

Mostar was everything we hoped it would be. Colourful, chaotic, and completely captivating. The train journey alone was worth the effort, winding through landscapes that barely seem real. Add in Sheva’s storytelling, the Old Bridge jumpers, and a cheeky bottle of pomegranate rakija, and it was one unforgettable day.

If you’re in Sarajevo, make time for the train ride to Mostar. Don’t rush it, don’t over-plan it. Just let Bosnia do its thing. It’ll test your patience, fill your belly, and steal a piece of your heart.