Food, History & Heart in Bosnia’s Capital

Mish
Sep 29
5 min read

Updated: Oct 4

There are some cities that surprise you the moment you arrive, and Sarajevo was one of them.

From the air, it’s breathtaking, mountains folding in on the city like protective arms, red rooftops scattered in every direction, and ribbons of green running through the valleys. Ash, who never takes the window seat, lucked out this time, and couldn’t stop pointing out peaks as we descended. I could already tell this was going to be one of those places that stays with us long after we leave.

Arrival: Passport Queues, a Truck, and a Lot of Laughing

Our arrival at Sarajevo Airport was… memorable. Let’s just say it’s not the slick, air-conditioned gateway you might expect from Europe’s new “cool kid” destination. The terminal is small, the vibe is old-school, and the passport control line stretched all the way onto the tarmac… literally. There we were, standing under the summer sun, passports in hand, laughing because what else can you do?

By the time we made it through immigration, we were equal parts wilted and wired. Ash grabbed some cash at the ATM (one of our big Bosnian Travel Tips right there… jump to the end for our travel tip) And finding a taxi turned into its own mini adventure. in the best way. We somehow ended up with a private driver who spoke very little English but radiated pure Bosnian charm. He gestured enthusiastically, cracked jokes we only half understood, and after a few confusing minutes, motioned for us to hop into a minivan.

We waited. And waited. About half an hour later, he returned with even more travellers in tow, all of us piling into the minibus heading into town. It was equal parts chaotic and hilarious. A tiny part of me thought, this could be sketchy, but honestly, the warmth and friendliness of everyone on board quickly put us at ease. That’s the thing about Bosnia: it’s wonderfully unpredictable, but always good-hearted.

Our Sarajevo Base: Illica Lux City Apartments

Our home in Sarajevo was the Illica Lux City Apartments and Rooms, a converted family apartment tucked in the eaves of an old building in the city centre. Our room was modern, spotless, and had a skylight with a view straight out to the cathedral spire. The only catch? Six flights of stairs. With full Suitcases. No lift.

But that’s Europe for you charming, character-filled, and occasionally calf-burning. Once we caught our breath, we agreed the view (and location) were worth every step.

Day One: Food, Beer & Finding Our Feet

We hit the ground running that afternoon with a food tour through Sarajevo’s Old Town, a brilliant way to orient ourselves. We wandered cobbled streets, stopped for strong Bosnian coffee, flaky burek (meat, cheese, and potato-filled pastries, the potato was our favourite), and sizzling ćevapi, the country’s beloved grilled sausage dish – Another pro tip, don’t eat Cevapi like a tourist. It’s not a sandwich or burger, you’re meant to tear the bread and eat the meat with your hands. Never, ever, ever pick up the whole thing like a stuffed pita!

We even ended the tour at a local brewery for a cold beer, chatting with other travellers and learning about the city’s Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian influences.

After the tour, we weren’t ready to call it a night, so we found a tiny bar with chairs spilling onto the pavement, ordered another round (or two), and watched Sarajevo come to life around us. The mix of young people, street musicians, and golden evening light was magic. Naturally, we finished the night the way we started with another plate of ćevapi.

Day Two: Wandering, History & Heat

Our second day was all about exploring. We walked. And walked.

We wandered through the fresh food market, browsed local shops, and even hopped on a special anniversary tram, the first-ever tram in Europe, recommissioned to celebrate its 1825 debut. It was rickety, noisy, and completely wonderful. We had it entirely to ourselves and grinned the whole way, waving at locals who smiled back knowingly.

In the afternoon, we made our way uphill to the cemetery where the “Romeo and Juliet of Sarajevo” are buried, a young couple who were tragically killed during the siege in the 1990s while trying to flee the city. I’d seen the documentary years ago in high school, and it stayed with me all this time. Visiting their resting place felt strangely emotional, quiet, peaceful, and grounding. You can watch the short documentary here.

Afterwards, we found a shady spot for a cold beer, watched locals go about their day, and talked about how different Sarajevo is from anywhere else we’ve been, raw, resilient, and full of heart.

Back in the Old Town, we wandered through the coppersmith street, admiring the shimmering trays and teapots without buying much (our cases were already bursting). We stopped for another round of burek, this time potato with sour cream on top, the comfort food we didn’t know we needed!

Dinner that night was at Restaurant Višegrad, just off the main square. It became one of our favourite meals of the trip, Ash ordered, you guessed it, ćevapi again (I’m convinced he’s addicted), while I had delicate meatballs in broth with salad. Simple, hearty, and perfectly Bosnian.

Sarajevo in a Sentence? Unpredictable, Humble & Full of Soul

Sarajevo isn’t polished or picture-perfect, but that’s exactly what makes it special. It’s a city that still carries its history on its sleeve, the bullet-marked buildings, the blend of mosques and churches, the resilience of its people. But it’s also full of life: bars buzzing late into the night, locals who greet you with warmth, and the ever-present smell of grilled meat drifting through the air.

Travel Tips for Sarajevo

Bring comfy shoes, the cobblestones and hills are no joke.
Go easy on the burek… or don’t.
Learn a few Bosnian words, locals love when you try. Our essentials were
- Hvala (hvah-lah) meaning: Thank you.
- Molim (moh-leem) meaning: Please / You're welcome.
- Zdravo (zdrah-voh) meaning: Hello / Hi.
Don’t fear the chaos. Sarajevo’s unpredictability is half its charm.
Two to three days is perfect, long enough to explore and short enough to still want more.
ATM Fees – Bosnia’s international ATM fees were CRAZY! We spent $25AUD per withdrawal! The first few times Ash was a bit confused with the conversion and thought he must have got it wrong.. but no, $25AUD per withdrawal.