Camino Chronicles: Days 11-13

Mish
Jun 15
3 min read

Updated: Jun 25

Almost There… and Then, We Were

If you’d told me back on Day 1, windswept and wide-eyed in Matosinhos, that we’d soon be striding into Santiago de Compostela with full hearts and tired feet, I’m not sure I’d have believed you. Here we were, on the final leg of our Camino Portuguese adventure.

Three days to go. And somehow, our legs were still moving (with help from a little wine, a lot of snacks, and sheer willpower).

Day 11: Caldas de Reis to Padrón - 16km

Hot. That’s the first word that comes to mind.

By Day 11, the Camino gods turned up the heat and turned down the rain. Our morning walk through the forest offered some shade, but by the time we arrived in Padrón, we were glistening (okay, sweating) and dreaming of cool drinks and cold showers.

Thankfully, we had booked a little oasis: a gorgeous house tucked into what felt like a medieval film set, cobbled laneways, stone walls, and complete tranquility. It was easily one of our favourite stays on the trip. We flung open the shutters, aired out our socks, and sat with our feet up, trying to absorb just how close we were to the end.

Ash’s shin splints were hanging in there, and he bravely (or stubbornly?) walked the full day. The promise of Santiago was pulling us forward.

Day 12: Padrón to O Milladoiro - 17km

This was our “almost there” day.

Instead of walking straight into Santiago (like many pilgrims do), we made the call to stop short and spend one more night just outside the city, in O Milladoiro. It was a wise choice, not only did it let us enjoy a quieter, reflective evening, but it also meant we could properly arrive in Santiago the next morning, fresh and early and with a full day to soak it all in.

We stayed at Apartment V.T. Alojamiento Santa María, which gave us a cosy final night. There was definitely a shift in mood: part excitement, part disbelief, and part sadness that our Camino was nearly over.

Day 13: O Milladoiro to Santiago de Compostela - 5km

We woke early. There was a stillness in the air, the kind that says something special is about to happen.

We didn’t eat much, just enough to get us going. And then we walked those final 5 kilometres in near silence, each of us taking in the moment in our own way.

Coming into Santiago de Compostela, seeing the spires of the Cathedral rise ahead of us, and walking through the narrow laneways toward the square… it’s hard to describe. You feel it more than anything. The joy, the release, the relief. The gratitude.

We’d cleverly booked into Hotel Exe Peregrino, which sat right on the way in. We dropped our bags before heading to the Cathedral, which was an absolute win, no heavy packs as we strolled into Praza do Obradoiro, arms around each other, tears in our eyes.

We made it.

And even better, our hotel had a pool.

So yes, we walked over 250km across Portugal and Spain… and then cooled off poolside with a glass of something cold and a huge smile on our faces.

💛 Reflections

The Camino gave us more than blisters and early mornings. It gave us space, to talk, to walk, to reconnect with each other and our friends. It gave us hilarious inside jokes, the knowledge that grilled octopus is always the right choice, and the realisation that even on the hardest days, we’re stronger than we think.

Was it hard? Yes.

Would we do it again? Also yes.

Will we pack less next time? DEFINITELY.

Thank you for coming along with us on this series. We hope our Camino stories have sparked something in you, whether it’s a plan, a dream, or just a chuckle.

Until the next adventure,

Mish x