Camino Chronicles: Days 1-4

Mish
Jun 15
3 min read

Updated: Jun 25

Wind, Wine and Wondering What We’ve Done

There’s a unique kind of energy that comes from taking on something big. The kind that has you triple-checking your pack, rethinking your sock choices, and wondering (quietly, over espresso) whether you’re actually a bit mad. That was me on the morning we set off on our Camino Portuguese adventure from Porto, nerves doing a little jig in my stomach, excitement fizzing somewhere underneath.

We made the call to start in Matosinhos, catching a local train to skip the city sprawl and give ourselves a gentler Camino launch, or so we thought.

Day 1: Matosinhos to Vila do Conde - 24km

Let’s just say the Atlantic had a lot to say that day. Picture: sideways wind, hair in eyes, backpacks slapping against our backs like enthusiastic toddlers. But the coastline was stunning, wild and fresh and bracing in the best way. We were absolutely wrecked by the time we reached Vila do Conde, but our reward was a stay at Hotel Brazão and the kind of dinner that Camino dreams are made of: grilled octopus, Portuguese wine, and the kind of sleep that feels like a small miracle.

Day 2: São Pedro de Rates to Barcelinhos - 14km

We made another executive decision on Day 2: skip ahead a little and swap the coastal path for the Central route. So we jumped in an Uber to São Pedro de Rates, which felt delightfully cheeky and also very us. The walk into Barcelinhos was a dream, shorter, greener, with tiny villages and cobbled lanes that made it feel like we’d been dropped into a fairy tale.

We were starting to loosen up. My shoulders still ached, sure, but I wasn’t questioning all my life choices anymore. Just some.

Day 3: Barcelinhos to Aborim - 11km

This was one of those quieter Camino days that turned out to be unexpectedly magical. A shorter walk meant we arrived early at our stay: Sonya’s House, a warm and welcoming homestay that immediately felt like walking into someone’s actual life, in the best way.

Dinner was organised by our host, who summoned a taxi and sent us off to a local restaurant. Our driver spoke zero English but was full of expressive hand gestures and what I assume were passionate explanations of the town’s history or perhaps his dinner recommendations, we’ll never know. Whatever it was, we loved every second.

Day 4: Aborim to Ponte de Lima - 22km

By now, the rhythm of the Camino was beginning to seep in. Early starts, long walks, and the promise of something delicious at the end. And Ponte de Lima delivered in every possible way.

It became one of our favourite stops, cobbled charm, music drifting through the air, families out in the square, and bars with outdoor tables just begging you to sit and stay a while. We did just that, sipping drinks and people-watching like seasoned travellers (with slightly sore feet).

Dinner at Taverna Vaca das Cordas was, in a word, divine-more grilled octopus (yes, again) and a homemade liqueur so good we forgot to ask what it was. Or maybe we did ask… and forgot the answer. Either way, no regrets.

We stayed at the Blue House, which was modern, comfy, and perfectly located. After four days of walking, it felt like a little slice of Camino luxury.